Choosing Products For Your Skin Type

Each client’s skin has unique needs, so selecting the right products is very important. There are many types of cleansers available on the market, and there is no one perfect product for all. Typically, older clients have dry skin and prefer milky cleansers because they don’t strip the skin of natural oils, and moisturize as they clean. Younger clients may prefer a foamy cleanser, which makes the face feel “squeaky clean” and tight. Different cleansers are made with ingredients added specifically to treat certain skin types. For example, aloe and chamomile are added to soothe sensitive skin, salicylic and AHA to treat oily, and acne-prone skin. 

Applying serum is essential if you want to target wrinkles, and deliver active ingredients deep into the skin. Serums have small water-based molecules that penetrate the skin, and go to work reducing fine lines, and crow's feet. For everyone over 30, select a serum with peptides if you are worried about wrinkles, a serum with alpha arbutin if you are trying to get rid of hyper pigmentation, and a serum with collagen boosting Trilogen, if you want to plump and firm inelastic skin.

Applying moisturizer is essential after serum application. This step ensures that the serum doesn't evaporate, and provides a double layer of anti-aging peptides. Choose a light moisturizer to allow the skin to breathe, such as a hyaluronic peptide crème, or an antioxidant leave-on mask at night.

Peptide Combinations in Skin Care

—Which formulations/combinations is your company currently exploring and why (how they work, skincare benefits, etc)?

We love peptides, and the best combination that we have found to work well against wrinkles has been Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) with Matrixyl ™3000. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline®) improves wrinkle depth, wrinkle volume and roughness. Matrixyl ™3000 minimizes crow’s feet and laugh lines, and prevents from further damage and wrinkle formation.

—Are delivery systems (into the skin) an issue? How is that addressed in your formulas?
Usually, peptides are best absorbable when used in a water-based serum, with the addition of low-molecular weight Hyaluronic Acid. This is the formulation behind SAIAN Active Renewal Serum.

—This topic can easily get confusing for even the most well-versed esthetician: what advice can you give for ways to sort through all their peptide product options, and to interpret labels?
As we all know, ingredients are listed on the label starting with the most prevalent to the least prevalent. It’s important to choose a product which is water-based, and has peptides in the beginning of the ingredient list – this way you can be assured of the amount of peptides in the formula. You may also consult the manufacturer, and ask what percentage of a given peptide is used. Usually, 10% of each peptide is sufficient to give great results, if there is a blend of 3 or 4 peptides in a formula. Our serums have 6 peptides!

—Which peptide/peptide or peptide/other ingredient combos do you think should be avoided and why?
Avoid peptide combinations that are mixed with hydroquinone, parabens, and other toxins that can irritate the skin.

—What do you envision for the future of peptides in skin care?
The future of peptides most likely lies in skin-repairing copper-peptide complex, and in all natural paraben-free combinations.

Selecting a Moisturizer

Is the overwhelming amount of moisturizers on the market causing you confusion? When to apply a creme? What about a serum? When to apply ampoules? What about a collagen spray? Do you really need all that "stuff"? 

Before making any recommendations, I like to conduct a client consultation, to analyze my client's skin. For anyone with dry, and very dry skin, I always recommend to start with a moisturizing milky cleanser twice a day. This way you know that all steps in your daily routine are designed to hydrate.

When it comes to moisturizing the skin, a serum always comes first! Remember, a serum has a watery, oil-free formula, that is easily absorbable by the skin. This type  of product is ideal for application around the delicate skin if the eyes, and the nasolabial folds. Most serums tend to be ionizable, and can be penetrated with a galvanic machine. This is a great way to get the best results from the active ingredients in the product! You don't need any big professional equipment - there are a number of hand-held units available on the market, that work as well as the large machine, and sometimes even better! Here is a link to a previous blog entry about the hand-held machines.

After applying a serum, it's best to apply a creme. The reason for this, is that a creme creates a barrier that helps keep the serum from evaporating. Since serums don't have oil, they penetrate quickly, but don't feel like they are moisturizing enough. Most of the time, serums leave a tight feeling on the skin. After application of creme, the skin will feel softer, more shiny and moisturized.

Ampoules and extremely liquid serums are best used under masks, especially collagen masks. Never wash the face after removing that product - remember, you are penetrating nourishing ingredients, so everything will stay on the skin after application.

My Article This Month in Dermascope Magazine - All About Serums